Star chefs and star farmers

sterrenchef_onno_kokmeijer_small.jpgHighlight of the past few weeks was the presentation of Daniel Maissans book #Sterrenchefs (#Star chefs). Which was presented at Duin en Kruidberg in Santpoort and it was unique in itself that 50 to 60 Michelin starred chefs were present. You don’t get so many chefs together very often, because we’re all awfully busy! But besides that, the book is brilliant. Maissan managed to portray no less than 103 Dutch star chefs. Well, that is almost every star chef in The Netherlands, I believe only one is missing. And those portraits are very special too:

Daniel photographed us all in a playful way with an ingredient that inspires us. I am portrayed with a three-kilo chunk of chocolate in my mouth. Others have a fish hanging over their shoulder or a steak on their heads or twigs of rosemary behind their ears, almost like the ancient Roman emperors wore their laurel crowns.

Those 103 portraits are accompanied by the chefs’ recipes. Not simply printed from a computer, but all handwritten to give it a personal touch. And with drawings, as we often draw new dishes to show our team what it will look like on a plate. I chose the poire belle Hélène, a classic dish of Auguste Escoffier that was named after Offenbach’s opera La Belle Hélène, I assume. Arjan and I were already working on this recipe, in which the dessert with poached pear, chocolate and vanilla ice-cream is dismantled to give it our own idiosyncratic twist. Why this dish? Because it is a wonderful creation, that deserves it to get a modern-style makeover.

By the way, Mr. Oshima, the founder of the Japanese Kitchen in Holland, and Mr. Tomikawa, Chef of the Yamazato Restaurant, are of course also present in this culinary publication.

And more presentations have taken place over the last couple of days. For example a presentation on micro-vegetables from the United States. Something completely different compared to a book presentation. Ten Dutch chefs were invited to Bunnik to get introduced to the products of The Chef's Garden. It is the name of the family business of Bob Jones, which cultivates mini-vegetables and herbs at his farm in Ohio for over 30 years. These products are no small varieties but Bob and his children just pick the vegetables and herbs early in the process. They do everything manually! And afterwards they wrap it very carefully to get it just in two days at the table in Ciel Bleu. 

Of course the comparison with our own Koppert Cress is close, but the concept is totally different. The Chef's Garden produces its products on the full ground. The vegetables are picked instead of delivered with roots and breeding ground. The taste is incredibly intense, yet refined, without the risk that your vegetables will dominate your dish.

Although, Arjan and I see the importance of perfect vegetables and herbs very well, our kitchen will never be dominated by vegetables. Besides the vegetarian signature dishes that we do have, the fish or meat will always be the most important part.  But when you work with small portions, like in our kitchen, you also need a modest vegetable garnish. That can be achieved by working with juliennes and brunoises or by stabbing your vegetables, which is more graceful. And much tastier too.

Enjoy life and enjoy food,

Onno Kokmeijer and team

 

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